Sommelier Notes for May

by Bill Summerville

So step out of your comfort zone and preconceived notions.

With May’s menu Jamie invites us to explore the Loire Valley.

Joan of Arc, the 24 hours of Le Mans road race, and the chateaus that inspired Disney World’s castle are all part of the history and beauty of the Loire Valley. The Loire is also home to one the world’s most iconic grapes, Sauvignon Blanc.

Grown the world over it can be argued that the best sauvignon blanc hails from the Loire Valley, specifically the appellation of Sancerre. There are other sauvignon blanc appellations; Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon, Quincy, Reuilly and more, but Sancerre is number one.

While the Internet indicates that chardonnay is the most popular wine in the United States, my own data demonstrates that Sauvignon Blanc is tops. This seems to be the case regardless of where it is from, which is odd as it is a chameleon-like grape taking on unique qualities depending on where it is grown. In California in can be more fruit forward, in South America it often has a bell pepper or even a jalapeño note and in New Zealand it will have gooseberry. These are all generalizations, but they have a degree of reliability.

Why is sauvignon blanc so trendy and popular these days? It used to be Pinot Grigio, and then chardonnay, until chardonnay fell from grace. How is it these wines become the go-to wine? I think because people want to feel comfortable, confident and safe in their order and in pronunciation. “I’ll have a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.” They probably can’t tell the difference between a New Zealand and a California Sauvignon Blanc (this is not a slight) but they feel confident saying it. Influencers, advertising and the people we drink wine with all have a hand in influencing us and creating these trends. I am probably influencing you right now.

What does this have to do with May’s menu and the Loire Valley? Why am I doing this dive into societal wine trends? I want to encourage you to trust your gut and take chances on drinking new wines and be confident in what you drink. Don’t be a lemming. Don’t keep ordering Sauvignon Blanc to be safe. Order Sauvignon Blanc because you like it.  In order to know what you like you have to know what you don’t like and the Loire Valley is a perfect place for that experimentation.

The Loire Valley is a large appellation covering 180 hectares. It could be four or more distinct wine regions. It is coastal on its Western edge with Muscadet receiving a saline kiss from the Atlantic Ocean and becomes continental as It stretches almost all the way to Chablis in central France. Along the way we meet Melon, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Grolleau, Pinot Meunier, Pineau d’Aunis, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc. These wines can range from light and easy, to peppery, fruity, funky and sublime.

So step out of your comfort zone and preconceived notions. Be adventurous. Let’s say you don’t like a wine. Try the same type of wine from a different producer, price point or region.  I used to think Argentinian Malbec was too fruity, simple and uninteresting until I tried some that were a little higher in price and did the tiniest amount of reading. Now I’m a huge fan.

After this type of thoughtful tasting you may be able to know with confidence and not just follow the herd regarding what you like and don’t like.

Joan of Arc, Enzo Ferrari, and Walt Disney did not follow the herd.

Bill